Restaurant Spotlight - ATOMA
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Photo courtesy of Kyler Martin
We would love for everyone to meet Johnny Courtney, the Chef and co-owner of ATOMA in Wallingford. His career took him around the world; from Australia to Mexico to settling in Seattle. We’re sure glad he did. Once an executive sous-chef at Canlis, it’s clear he’s got love for not only good food but also the larger food community as well!
We first met Johnny and the Atoma gang when they were part of “The incredible Feast 2023”- Neighborhood Farmers Markets yearly fundraiser. And he’s a been regular at plenty of markets around town, usually with other members of the ATOMA staff. (You can sometimes catch him at Ballard on Sundays)
The man’s got a busy schedule but we were lucky enough to get him to answer a handful of questions on his thoughts about buying local and what that means to him:
Can you share a bit about your culinary background and what inspired you to become a chef?
I started working in the industry at 14 and have never looked back. My mom worked in food & beverage which got me into the industry. It's not so much that I love cooking as much as I love eating and cooking seemed like the best way to eat good food.
What motivated you to prioritize buying locally for your restaurant?
It's important for me to have a relationship with the people I am buying from and small farmers are the best way to do that. When you're buying from people you know you always have access to the freshest, coolest ingredients.
Can you describe the relationship you've built with local farmers and producers over the years?
Yes, I have built strong relationships over time. Since moving to Seattle, we have visited one of the markets every week and in working at Canlis and now opening Atoma, we have connected with many local farmers. Local farmers are the ultimate inspiration for our menu as our menus are based on what they have available at the time.
How does your commitment to buying locally align with your overall culinary philosophy?
The most impactful way we can contribute to being a sustainable business is through sourcing. Our goal is to serve the best food we can get our hands on, being in tune with local farms not only gives us access to the best ingredients we can find but also allows us to operate as a business more sustainably.
Any advice you would give to other chefs and restaurants interested in transitioning to a more locally sourced menu?
My advice is to shop the market weekly, build relationships, ask questions to the farmers and their teams to understand what ingredients they have coming up. The best way to see what's available is to find a market in your area and frequent it.
How do you balance supporting local farms with the need to maintain costs for your restaurant?
We buy the best ingredients available, and we don't waste any of it. Excess ingredients and scraps are made into stocks, sauces, ferments, and family meals. This helps us control costs.
Any specific sustainability practices within your restaurant that you're particularly proud of?
We have a focus on sustainability in everything we do from operations, building materials, and sourcing. The farmers market aligns with us in this way as we buy direct from farmers and their packaging is minimal. Food bought directly from farms is not overpackaged and covered in plastic. We return the boxes and crates weekly we get from farmers. This also helps us save on waste costs.
Can you highlight a dish or two on your menu that feature locally sourced ingredients?
Yes, Our new Asparagus dish - miso (from Yoka Miso) roasted asparagus (Alvarez Farms) with green garlic buttermilk sauce, Dungeness crab, and foraged greens (Foraged & Found). and our Pork Dish - Roasted Jerusalem artichokes (Steel Wheel Farms), black trumpet mushroom jam (Foraged & Found), and grilled pork collar (Olsen Farms).
Photo courtesy of Kyler Martin
Photo courtesy of Kyler Martin
Also, a big thanks to Sarah Courtney, operations director + co-owner of ATOMA and Dillon Raaz, Bar Director at Atoma for stopping and chatting with us. All three of these fine folks, and of course the staff that works at ATOMA, are a force for good in the world of Seattle restaurants and Seattle food. Not only is their food delicious, but the way they run their business also has such a huge positive impact on the farms and the community around them. Please, we’re telling you, go eat at ATOMA. Stuff yourself, drink some cocktails, and be merry. I guarantee your heart and your stomach will feel full.
